A city of contrasts, London is simultaneously the cradle of pomp, pageantry, and history and the birthplace of all things groundbreaking and cutting edge. Once the immutable capital of fish-and-chips, it's now a cheerful chameleon, brilliantly reinventing itself when no one is looking, then preening nonchalantly when the global spotlight turns its way.

SOME OF LONDON'S MOST NOTABLE SIGHTS

BRITISH MUSEUM - Unless you have a week to visit the 2.5 miles of galleries, head for the Elgin marbles (which once decorated the Parthenon in Athens), the Rosetta Stone, the Magna Carta, and the Egyptian mummies. WHERE: Great Russell St. Bloomsbury. Tel 44/ 20-7323-8299; www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE - Official residence of the queen. When she's away in August and September, parts of the 600-room landmark (the state apartments, the throne room, and the Picture Gallery) are open to the public. The Changing of the Guard is done on alternate days at 11:30 A.M. WHERE: St. James's. Tel 44/20-7839-1377; www.royal.gov.uk.

HAMPTON COURT - Five hundred landscaped acres of gardens and a famous maze of tall hedges (the key is to turn left upon entering). For 200 years a royal palace: Henry VIII and five of his six wives lived here. Owes much of its present look to Sir Christopher Wren.